Tuesday, January 29, 2013
Thurlow Pants and Ottobre Woman top
Some notes on the pattern itself:
The instructions are good. I automatically grade my seam allowances on waistbands and other bulky areas, but it is not mentioned in their instructions. I used a lining fabric on the inside of the waistband and should have used the corduroy. The hook and eye closure that I used had prongs instead of sewn. The prongs needed a more substantial fabric to latch onto. I also omitted beltloops because I never wear my shirts tucked. On step 17 the dotted sewing line goes straight at the center of the waistband when it should angle back in order to accommodate the folding down of the waistband. The back seam has a wide seam allowance to adjust fit. I used the actual chalk line because of my sway back. I also scooped out the back crotch 1/4 inch. I compared the flexible ruler version of my crotch curve to the pattern's stitching line.
Nice tee shirt pattern. The arms are slim fitting and it is fitted at the hips. The brown fabric is a stretchy rayon knit and the pattern fit OK with this fabric. The black and white Escher print from Fabrique! fabrics was more stable. I added width to the pattern at my hips to allow for this difference. I forgot to add a bit of width to the arms and now they are a somewhat tight. I did a forward shoulder adjustment to the Escher top which improved the looks. I still need to shorten this top at the back waist and add a sway back adjustment. Both tops have a FBA.
I am just starting on fit issues and I am looking forward to getting this part of my sewing better.