Sunday, September 18, 2011

Ottobre 5/2011 Violet Rose top

Well, this was suppose to be for me.  I had cut it all out when my daughter declared that the rock'n'roll print would be a problem on someone my age. :(  I think she just wanted it for herself...haha.  So instead of waiting to get the call from "What Not to Wear." I recut this down to a size 34 instead of the 38. I'll have to make that sequined mini skirt for myself and go pick her up from the homeschool coop.  : o )

The biggest change I made was cutting the sleeves into a cap sleeve silhouette. She suggested that we turn this into a dress by adding a 3-4 inch band at the bottom.  We toyed around with some scraps and I do believe it would make an adorable dress too. 

Some of the sewing changes I made: I gathered between the arrows by zigzagging over some dental floss.  I started to try it the Ottobre way with clear elastic but my machine kept eating it. Instead of persevering, I just did the old TNT way.  I interfaced the neckline front and back with Sew Keyes' knit fusible tape. The outer yoke is with a medium weight rib type knit. So, I used a thinner black jersey for the inside lining. I thought it would be too thick if I used the stripe on both sides.  I did not finish the bottom edge of the yoke with a serger because I figured it would grow too much. When I completed both sides of the yoke, the neckline wanted to bag out a little in the front and back.  I fixed this with a 1/4 inch top stitch around the neck.
That's about it!  It was pretty simple little top to make.

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Onion pants 4022

This is a loose fitting pant similar to a groovy sweatpant but made with a woven. It comes in capri and ankle length. I made the ankle length for my daughter. There is also version on this pattern that has seams that run down the middle of the front and back. When I make this for myself, I think I will add the center seams because it looks slimming and I need all the help I can get!
Onion 4022 pants

I love the pockets and the knit waistband with a woven. I used a tencel fabric which is very unstable and harder to sew, but the sheen, softness and pressability is wonderful. Tencel really shows starch, so that was not a good option prior to cutting out. Just a note: I made the longest version and my daughter is just under 5'3". Tall girls/women may need to lengthen this pattern.

One of the benefits to using the European patterns besides fabulous designs and drafting is customizing the seam allowances.  You can add wider sa's to the side seams for fitting issues and narrower sa's for tricky areas like a collar. You can also cut out templates and interfacing without seam allowances. I also find less problems with fit than many of the American patterns.


A note on pockets:  I did not gather the curved corners of the pockets per their instructions, instead I made templates out of comic cardboard and pressed around them. Comic cardboard is stiffer than manila folders but still thin. I use it to wrap fabric around like a mini-bolt too. To make the template, I use a needle tracer and just traced the pockets sans seam allowances, cut out and voila! a template.

Thanks for looking and sewing hugs to you!

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Onion Jacket 1040 with my Burda Style top. I made the longer version. One of the views hits at the waist

On the Onion site I saw their version of this pattern and I had to have it.  The link is the Onion jacket that was my inspiration.
To no avail, I could not find a similar fabric.  I decided this fabric would do because its reverse side is very cute.
What I really like about this pattern is not only is it very well drafted but it lends itself to some very interesting variations.  The contrast was accomplished by applying the facings to the outside.  There was a notched out section of the front facing that I trimmed flush with the rest of it. To accomplish the facing to the outside trick, all you have to do is put the seam allowances at the neck to the outside instead of the inside.  When you attach the facing to the front, it will enclose those seam allowances.
                                          Stanzy, my kitten helper.

 Here is the notched out part of the facing that I trimmed in order to have a smooth line. That does not sound right.  This is the facing with the notch. After I cut out the fabric, I trimmed that portion away.
This is the front piece that wraps around the neck and the front side piece. I do not make princess seam anythings very often, so here is a tip because I seem to forget it and have to rip out and redo.  When joining the above pieces be sure the top tip of the side piece extends by the length of its seam allowance when you pin it.  Then it is perfectly matched when you open it up to press.  With 3/8ths seam allowances and relatively loosely woven fabric and good pressing, I did not need to clip the curves.  This just makes it prettier on the inside..

Just a picture of what I am talking about above.

This was a very simple pattern. It is unlined and unstructured. I was fairly certain about the sizing so I made my typical 38 with 3/8ths seam allowance. They recommend 1 cm which is approximately the same as 3/8ths. The princess seams and the center back could be made with a wider seam allowances for lots of adjusting opportunities.

Thanks for looking!