Monday, July 4, 2011

Burda WOF 6-2011 from Burda Style website



I really like this top. I downloaded it for $5.40 from Burda Style. It went together really easy.  I had some "scratching my head" moments when it came to this neckline.  I swear, if Burda would use some good old fashioned cooking/food terms when describing how to do something in their directions, life would be good.  If you have sewed the Sunshine top from Hot Patterns or Kwik Sew 3617, you will get how to do this.  Below, I'll try to shed some light on this neckband.

My mannequin has broader shoulders and one more inch in the bust than I do.  She was the closest I could find without wrapping myself with ductape to get more of a likeness. I'm sure that is a good thing to do, but I have to draw the line somewhere.

Not the best pic of me, but the shirt details were good.


Pattern information and changes:
This is a pattern that calls for woven fabric with a strip of jersey for the neck edge. I made the whole thing in mid-weight drapey cotton jersey (Super Textiles in Dallas) to see what I would get. I sewed a size 38 with absolutely no fitting adjustments except to shorten it by 2 inches (I am 5 ft 3in.).  The shirt on the model has normal size shoulders and the sleeve shoulders are meant to ride an inch or so smaller.  I have no shoulders to speak of, so this top fits my shoulders the way a normal shirt would. When I make this again, I am going to try to make the next one look more like the model's shoulder fit.
Neckband:
It has an outer band and an inner band (same pattern piece) that sandwiches a strip of jersey like a piping. The instructions do not call for interfacing, but I interfaced the outerband. Sew the 2 separate neckbands together at the shoulders, then lay the non-curled edge of the strip of jersey face down (make into a loop first if you want) to the top edge of the outside facing neckband and sew it down. No stretching is needed.  When you turn the right sides out (with the wrong sides together), the jersey strip will stick up like a piping. I had a beautifully curled selvage that I used.  Attach the front facing neckband to the neck edge opening of the shirt body, press seam allowances to the neckband, then on the outside stitch in the ditch or top stitch the neckband edge.  I use steam a seam to tack the inside neckband down so that stitching in the ditch is easier.

Gathering at the neck and sleeves:  I always zigzag over dental floss about 1/4 inch away from the edge.  The wax on the dental floss gives a little drag to the fabric which keeps the gathering together nicely.

Likes:  When I copied this from Burda Style, the pieces matched up like a dream.  I added 3/8ths seam allowances to all of the pattern pieces except the strips for the sleeves because the SA was already included.  Also, it was a binding and the included 5/8ths SA was not a bother.  I also love the fact that the instructions tell you the inches/centimeters that the gathering section must reduce to. I have always had an issue with "gather between the large circles."  I mean really?? How much do you need to gather this area....Thank YOU Burda! 

This was  my muslin.  I think a bright floral print or a black cotton gauze would be really nice in this pattern.  Thanks for looking!!

Claire

3 comments:

  1. Very nice looking top, Claire! I am looking forward for your upcoming versions.

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  2. Hi! I found your blog through patternreview.com. I really like your top! I purchased that particular issue of BurdaStyle for some of the kids' patterns but was eyeing that top for myself. I'm sure I'll be referencing your detailed instructions. I've made a few things from Burda but end up mostly ignoring their instructions!

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  3. I found your blog through PR. I love your top! This pattern made up as the dress is on the cover of the June Burda Style and I plan to make it. Thanks for the info about the shoulders, I have very narrow shoulders also.

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